CANOEING NORTHERN QUEBEC AND LABRADOR


Labrador Coast/Korok River

In 1996 we undertook what was perhaps our most ambitious trip, paddling from Nain up the coast of northern Labrador, into Nachvak Fiord and up the Palmer River, over the height of land, and down the Korok River to Ungava Bay.

We ended by going up the George River a short way to the village of Kangiqsualujuaq. Our group was: Al and Wendy, Dave and Ann and Dick Irwin and Tom Elliott.

The trip was essentially a repeat of one that George Luste and friends had done about 10 years earlier.

Two of our travelling companions, Dick and Tom, had been on that earlier trip.

The scenery was spectacular. We paddled by three mountain chains -- the Kiglapaits, the Kaumajets and the Torngats -- and crossed several fiords. It was a late spring and there were patches of snow on the hills and a riot of wildflowers. We paddled with ice floes and icebergs for most of the trip.

The paddling was thrilling but frightening. The possibility of having strong winds come out of the fiords or from the ocean was always on my mind. We often paddled by cliffs and I was always alert to any small foothold that might give us a place to land if the weather got bad.

We ran into a charter boat out of Nain twice as they were taking sightseers up the coast. We did not see anyone else for six weeks.

Parts of the Torngats and the Korok River are now part of Torngat Mountains National Park. With less sea ice there due to global warming, more Polar Bears are coming on shore, making travel in the area more risky.

All photos by Al Stirt except as noted: DB - Dave Brown, WS- Wendy Scott.